Le Jardin de Berthe

My parents were visiting, and on the last night we wanted to go somewhere which had plenty of meat-free offerings for Marie.

Le Jardin de Berthe is renown in Lyon for their huge range of salads — around 40. Many of these contain meat, so omnivores may not be disappointed. If you really — really — don't want a salad then there are some ravioli-based dishes on the menu, but I'd probably advise you to go elsewhere.

The 'Jardin' part is perhaps a little misleading: the dining room is a vaulted cellar, not a verdant courtyard. There are a few two-person tables on the pavement outside if that kind of thing souses your herring.

The first thing I noticed was how LOUD it was in the dining room. It was impossible to hold a normal conversation as all the diners were bellowing at the tops of their voices. The situation improved later, so I guess it was due to a particularly noisy group whom everyone had to shout over. But to start we were all yelling like yuppies in a Bishopsgate wine bar.

Menus are in French — usually no problem — but we were puzzled by the meaning of gésiers, which appeared in several salads. Marie didn't know because she doesn't eat meat. My parents didn't know because they don't speak French. I just didn't know.

The waiter didn't know either, but he went to ask the chef, and came back with a few samples on cocktail sticks. They turned out to be bits of chicken stomach (that's how the chef described them anyway). Gizzards to me, and quite tasty if you don't stop to think about it.

We all picked our salads, and Pops ordered a bottle of Côtes du Rhône.

In very short order, four enormous salads arrived.

And they were huge. I think I was the only person to finish mine. Pops has ordered one with a 'mixture of chicken and veal, à la kebab'. He had taken this to mean thing-on-a-stick, but that's brochette in French: a kebab is that greasy elephant's leg thing that kebab shops put up to keep the flies away. So he was not too impressed with that, but it looked OK to me. But then I guess I eat fried chicken stomachs, so cannot be classified as particularly fussy.

I like my wine to be either good, cheap or both. The Côtes du Rhône was none of the above.

We had desserts; mine was great tarte au citron with a slightly unnecessary and over-sweet caramel sauce. Maman raved about her ice-cream.

I enjoyed my salad and have already been back to repeat the experience. It was much quieter this time.

Salads €10 - €13, bottle of wine €14.

Decor: 3.5/5
Service: 4/5
Price: 4/5
Toilets: 3/5

Le Jardin de Berthe, 3, Rue de Fleurieu, 69002 Lyon (google map)
04 78 38 24 46

La cannoise

Pizzeria, restaurant, glacier et bar. Nous étions au paddy's pour le match France/Uruguay (on aurait mieux fait de rester chez nous d'ailleurs), bref nous avions deux heures d'avance, nous avons donc décidé d'aller voir la pizzeria d'à coté .

Et c'est plutot pas mal,on était pas déçu. On y trouve tout ce que l'on peut attendre de toute pizzeria qui se respecte: de bonnes pizzas !youpi!
Pour le reste ,ben ,à par les desserts qui semblaient pas mal, c'etait trés moyen. Mais les prix sont plus que raisonnables . Par exemple ma salade était à 4 euros, peu de garniture mais une vraie sauce au lieu d'huile d'olive.

Je n'ai jamais été une grande fan des pizzerias de quartier, mais celle-là j'y retournerais volontier lors de petites faims occasionelles.

Nous sommes repassé devant, une semaine plutard ,vers 20h00. Il faisait beau et la terrasse était pleine . Je crois que ça résume bien cet endrois :
Si l'ocassion se présente ,pourquoi pas ? c'est bon et sympas .

Decor:3/5
Service:3/5
Price:3/5
Toilets:N/A

La cannoise, 6 rue de cuire, 69004, Lyon (Google map)

Kelly's Pub - Quiz Night

Marie was doing that fully-ready leaning-against-the-door-jamb thing and eyeing me critically.

"OK, two minutes. I'm nearly ready". I scrabbled for my bag and camera, and downed a pre-game shot of whiskey. "Let's go."

We scuttled down the traboule and hurried to Kelly's Pub. Marie was concerned that the pub would be full and we wouldn't be able to get seats. After all, that's what would have happened at The Smoking Dog or Paddy's Corner if we rolled up without leaving a good half-hour before the quiz started.

Arriving at 20h45, the pub was largely empty and I snaffled a prime terrace seat while Marie did the honours at the bar.

It was still happy hour, yet a pint of Guinness and a glass of vin rouge came to €9. Marie groused about the English barman's inability to understand her French.

The bar is large, with lots of tables. There's a pool table which costs €8 per hour. There are several TVs showing sport.

The music was middle-of-the-road cock-rock. The kind of music Citroën use to advertise cars. We loaded up on nicotine and retired inside to be quizzed.

The quiz costs €1 per entrant. The French quizmistress asked the questions over an indistinct PA system, then the questions were repeated in English by her assistante (who had a better microphone technique). The quizmistress seemed to enjoy her moment in the spotlight and chatted with her friends over the mike, confusing the hell out of me.

There were rounds on geography, science, music, pictures and sport.

Questions were OK — not quite up to the standard of the professionally produced UK pub quizzes, but not bad. The quizmistress stated that phones were banned, and anyone using a phone would be kicked out, which is a good policy which should be enforced at all quizzes.

Verdict: If your wallet can stand it and you fancy a quiz on a Monday night, then go for it. You'll be able to find space for a largish group, and you should have fun. I expect that the quizzing will improve with practice too.

Happy hours: Guinness €4.50, vin €4.50, misery hours: Guinness €5.70, vin €4.50

Quiz Monday at 21h00

Decor: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Prices: 1/5
Toilets: 4/5


12 Quai Romain Rolland 69005 Lyon, (Google map)

Pizza'Pentes (Delivery and Takeout)

Pizza'Pentes is our regular pizza delivery operation. Sometimes we get take-outs there too.

There's not much to say — a good sign, in my book.

The pizzas are pretty good, though the menu is a little odd — for example, there's no Hawaiian, but they do have pizzas with potatoes or barbecue sauce.

Delivery is fast and reliable; and there are no problems paying by card at the door.

Picking up a pizza there is usually interesting. The pizzas are ready in 10 minutes. You may be served by an eight year-old girl.

Once we tried to buy a bottle of diet coke, but the guy refused to sell it to us as it was out of date. I'm not sure that diet coke degrades over geological time-scales, never mind over the short term, and it makes me wonder why he had it on display if he wasn't going to sell it. Maybe he likes us, or only sells out-of-date coke to weekend drunks.

If you're after a delivery or takeout pizza in Croix Rousse, Pizza'Pentes is a good bet. It's on Montée Saint-Sebastien by Croix Paquet.

Buy two, get third free on delivery, buy one get second free on takeout.

Decor: 1.5/5
Service: 4/5
Prices: 3/5
Toilets: N/A

Pizza'Pentes, 43 rue René Leynaud, 69001 Lyon, 04 78 27 27 27 (Google map)

Andiamo Pizza (Delivery)

Wanting to expand our delivery pizza horizons, we tried one of the places that stuff leaflets into our mailbox instead of our usual purveyors Pizza'Pentes.

Eschewing such gustatory confections as Nutella pizza, or Pizza la kebab, we ordered more mundane fare. I had a vegetarienne, and Marie a do-it-yourself of marguerita with mushrooms.

Marie spent ages on her not-too-reliable mobile placing the order. She had to spell her name so many times and so slooowly that even I could understand it. She explained that it was an interphone with our name on. Order complete, we sat back in anticipation.

Much time later, the phone rang.

"What is the code?"

"There is no code; it's an interphone. It has our name on it"

He couldn't find our name on the door. I looked out of the window: there was no-one outside the door.

Marie explained where the door was. He was adamant that he was outside the door. I looked again and he still wasn't there.

Eventually, he found the door, then off he went to get the pizzas. From somewhere.

He came back with the pizzas some time later, and called again for the door code.

"It's an interphone, with our name on it! We're on the xth floor on the left."

Marie buzzed him in, and we waited.

And waited some more.

Marie stood at the open door, and he eventually appeared. Marie paid by card without any problems, and brought the pizzas inside in eager anticipation of the pizzery delights which awaited us.

To be honest, my pizza was a bit cold by now, but not too bad. Marie's was bread, with cheese on it. And a few mushrooms. No tomato sauce, no oregano.

When I went outside later I found a piece of paper screwed up on the floor outside our door.

With Marie's name spelt wrongly on it.


Decor: N/A
Service: -1/5
Prices: 3/5
Toilets: N/A

Andiamo Pizza, 1 bis Rue du Chariot d'Or, 69004 Lyon

Paddy's Corner

This is the nicest pub I've been to in Lyon. It's always busy, with a warm atmosphere. The staff are cheerful and friendly. There is plenty of terrace space for smokers, but the bar itself is pretty small. You can order pizzas from the pizzeria next door and eat them in the pub or on the terrace. Happy 'hour' is every night from 18:00 to 21:00.

We went on quiz night, which is every second Tuesday at 21:00.

The quiz is pretty well organised, but the rounds are a little rushed. It costs 1€ per person, and I've no idea what the prize was. Questions are in English and French.

Prices aren't bad for Lyon: €5 a for pint of Guinness. €2 for glass of not bad wine.

The clientele that night was mostly 20-30-somethings.

The staff are mostly English or Irish.


Decor: 4/5
Service: 5/5
Prices: 3/5
Toilets: 3/5


Paddy's Corner, 4 Rue de la Terrasse, 69004 Lyon (Google map)

Le Balmoral

Le Balmoral is to be found a short stroll from Terraux, but has a homely atmosphere not often found in this area of the 1st arrondissement.

The exterior is quite ostentatious, with an incongruous but fantastic neon sign proclaiming 'Pizzas au feu du bois'.

Inside is all burgundy and low lighting, with closely packed circular tables along the sides, and a long mead-hall-style table down the centre. The room is dominated by a huge glowing wood-fired oven behind the bar. Two young pizzeristas alternately deposited and retrieved pizzas with aplomb.

It was a Saturday night and we had no reservation, but were seated immediately on the mead-hall table. We soon discovered that it wasn't one table, but many pushed together when the waiter lost Marie's couverts with a clang through a gap in the paper tablecloths covering the spaces between them.

The pizzas were around €10, were pretty big, and came amazingly quickly. The oven must have been even hotter than it looked. We also had a pot of Côtes du Rhône which I think was about €8. Cheap for Lyon, and not bad.

The pizza was great: good crispy base, fresh-tasting topping and not smothered in cheese. The service could have been better: the waiter didn't really seem to know what he was doing and we were unable to attract his attention to pay the bill, so had to pay at the counter.

The other clients were mainly older family groups.

On the whole, I heartily recommend this resto and will be going back soon.

Decor: 4/5
Service: 2.5/5
Prices: 4/5
Toilets: Don't know

Le Balmoral, 14 Rue Lanterne, 69001 Lyon (Google map)

Le mandarin

Cela pourrait être un des meilleurs restaurants chinois . Emplacement pratique (près de la place des Terraux ), Spacieux, un décor qui vous emmène en Asie, bref tout paraissait être le merveilleux cliché du dinner romantique, jusqu'à l'arrivée des plats ...

Ce n'est pas que ce soit horrible ou immangeable, pas du tout . Mais seulement ça ne Colle pas du tout avec le reste du décor . On se croit en Chine, puis soudainement on se retrouve en France avec des plats plutot fades, trés simples, Aucune épice !? Du coup l'exotisme disparait vite fait .

Donc amateurs de cuicine asiatique abstenez vous .

Point positif tout de même , nous n'avons pas perdu beaucoup d'argent. Les prix sont trés raisonnables .

En gros, restaurant pas trop mal pour les soirs où l'on veut manger rapidement, sans être obligé d'aller au fast food ou dans une pizzeria .

Décor : 4/5
Service : 3/5
Prices : 3,5/5
Toilettes : 4,5/5

Le Mandarin, 15 rue Lanterne, 69001, Lyon

The Smoking dog

Pub assez sympas en plein St Jean ,mais qui me laisse plutot indifférente.

On peut y passer une bonne soirée avec des amis ,mais sans plus .
Prix raisonnables si vous évitez la bouteille de vin inbuvable à €10 .

Soiree Quizz tout les Mardis soir .

Le quizz lui même n'est pas trop mal . Assez difficile, ça coûte €1.
Le seul problème c'est le manque de place, donc si vous désirez y participer et pouvoir entendre les questions, mon conseil est d'arriver bien à l'avance .

Il n'y a malheureusement pas de terrasse pour les fumeurs .

les toilettes laissent franchement à désirez ...surtout qu'il y en a qu'une pour tout le bar.

Voila en gros Pub ok pour un verre . Mais je ne m'y attarderais pas .

Decor : 3/5
Service : 3/5
Prices : 2,5/5
Toilettes : 1/5

The smoking dog , 16 rue Lainerie , 69005 ,Lyon (Google map)